Piss Off, Snobby London!

All week in London, I had to defend the North. Londoners act like the entire northern part of the country is one giant inbred cousin, inexplicable and dull, and slightly embarrassing. You know what, though? I loved my trip up there, and not just for the spectacular company. I’m an urban snob, but I’m not immune to the charms of small, quiet towns. In fact, the older I get the more I think they’ve got it going on. (Assuming, of course, that one has the natural ability to create fun wherever one goes.) Lancashire overall was really quite beautiful, even in the rain, and Lancaster itself was a great little town, pedestrian-friendly medieval-style little burg with just enough modern touches to keep it from feeling too remote. Blackpool is sweet and trashy, just like I wanted it to be. Morecambe is a faded flower, still keeping itself moving along, even though the crowds have moved on. I had no trouble seeing why Paul stays up that way, despite the occasional drawbacks.

Sure, small towns can have plenty of small minds, but cities don’t automatically shield you from those. Small towns can offer the luxury of being able to catch your breath and determine your own pace. If your satisfaction only comes from novelty or consumption (of stuff, of stimuli), then big cities are te way to go. If you can make that move toward producing a life instead of consuming one — a goal I like to think I keep closing in on as I get older — then why not do it with a little elbow room and a little bit less strain on your bank account?

Alpha Male

If you know me, than you probably know that I’m a big fan of science fiction. Why hide my spots, right? I make an effort, though, not to impose my enthusiasm on those who don’t share it. It just invites snickering and rolling of the eyes.

Jonathan knows what I mean. He knows to avoid the indifference of some friends, and share the enthusiasm for others.

When we first met at this past Summer’s Blogmeet it came up in conversation that I’d been totally taken with my rediscovery of Space: 1999, a show whose charms he also understood. He told me about his best friend Kit, a sci-fi enthusiast who’d built made replicas of the show’s sets and costumes, which were — and you should see them for yourself — outstanding, at least before the show’s American backers called for some unfortunate budget cuts. Since I was clearly a fan and not just a curiosity-seeker, he promised me that I’d get to see Kit’s handiwork if I ever came to London.

Sunday, when I met Kit (who’s just a sweet, handsome gem of a fellow), I was blown away. I was also encouraged to indulge my fandom. May I now present then, my adventures in the Alpha Room:

Back at Last!

Hell of a trip, except for the plane ride itself. I’m very sad to have left all my pals in England, but very happy to be back. Very sad to be going to work in a few hours, very happy to get to sleep in my own bed first.

Jonathan remarked that I was pretty quiet on my first night out with him and David, and attributed it to my reluctance to be seen as American. Well, that’s a bit of paraphrasing of something that I was saying, but didn’t quite express the point.

That evening in particular, I was a little wiped out from my trip north, and I was perfectly content to let the two of them lead me around from glam bar to glam bar while they swapped stories of their own recent vacations. I wasn’t feeling a bit shy or self-conscious.

I was explaining, though, that when I’m out on my own in a foreign country, I tend to be quiet as a mouse, very reluctant to open my mouth and betray my nationality. I keep my interactions with waiters, shopkeepers and the like as monosyllabic (though as exceedingly polite) as possible, and quietly pass myself off as a local. Mostly, this is the flip side of my pride in being a savvy urbanite at home. I like to be seen as cool and capable, hip to the local customs and habits no matter where I am, like any jet-setter ought to be. The greatest compliment I can get in a foreign city? Someone coming up and asking me directions.

The other part is, however, that I’m usually a little embarrassed to be an American, and I slip into the role of apologist. It’s not completely true, of course, that Americans are loud and course and pushy when they’re abroad, but it’s more likely than not. American tourists often seem to act like they’re in a particularly vivid part of Disneyland or Epcot Center, but one where they’re not quite getting the service they expect. Every time I’ve been abroad — even in England where we all speak the same language — I cringe when I hear that homegrown accent griping or making some dim-witted exclamation. I never say a peep around other Americans if I can help it. If I’m able to tell they’re my countrymen, it’s probably because they’ve just done something that justifies our bad reputation. This is why when I do interact, I’m so aggressively polite and easy-going. I don’t want to be that guy.

In England, though, I run into a particular dilemma: after a while there, I start to slip into a bit of the accent. I can’t help it, really — I do it in the South, too, and even in Brazil I started to speak like a really good ESL student. I just adapt to what I keep hearing around me. As my use of slang changes and the shapes of my vowel sounds morph, I get even more self-conscious about the sound of my voice, worrying that it sounds like I’m intentionally faking it. If you see me at home in the next few days, you’ll hear it: At this point I’m all, “That bahstard took the piss out of me, just ‘cuz I left my trainers and jumper back at the flat.” I’m an English-language Zelig, not noticing how I try to escape notice. It’s goofy.

Hot Sauna Action

Once I get back, remind me to tell you more about the Victorian-era Turkish bath Paul took me to today. It was in Carlisle, a little village just south of Scotland. Presumably some Americans have been to the area to see Hadrian’s Wall and such, but we’re pretty sure I’m the first one to make it into the bathhouse. Nothing unseemly, just a little bit of relaxing luxury that the local farmers (and the occasional working-class hottie of dubious sexual orientation) enjoy for a mere trifle. A fascinating new experience in social dynamics.

Later, we returned to Lancaster and enjoyed a lovely Christmas dinner. Tony prepared the roast potatoes and vegetarian turkey, Paul brought out his homemade Christmas crackers, and we wrapped it all up with some Christmas pudding and some more TV masterpieces of schadenfreude.

Quick Notes

A few quick items before I forget:

  • I’ve had my fill of squeezing into single beds for the time being. For the rest of the trip, I’m going to remind myself that I’m on vacation and my comfort and convenience are important, too.
  • This is the fightin’est town I’ve seen in a while. I’ve never seen so many black eyes on random people in my life. I suspect it may have a lot to do with the power-drinking that goes on before the pubs close so barbarically early.
  • Blackpool is pretty magnificent, even when mostly closed for the season. It has all the creepy, trashy, sweet charms of Coney Island or the run-down parts of the Jersey Shore. I say this without irony: I’m a total fan of midways and carnivals and skee-ball and low-brow amusement fun.
  • The American Midwest may be pretty flat, vast, and featureless, but for sheer lack of visual stimulus, it ain’t got nothing on England’s Midlands.
  • Are we at war or something? There was some big protest going on in London, and all these earnest-looking trendy kids were wearing “Stop the War’ stickers in the Tube. Shouldn’t they have been out doing their patriotic duty and shopping?
  • There are more cute boys here than you can shake a stick at, but there’s a sad lack of the hispter-nerd aesthetic I enjoy so much at home.
  • It’s the little difference that matter, like going to buy a sandwich at the train station and having to choose between ham/pickle/onion and bacon/mayo/prawn.
  • There will be lots of photographic evidence when I get back.

Merry Ol’

I’m fucking exhausted, but at least I’m here, relatively safe and sound. What an ordeal it’s been so far! After two weeks of barely sleeping, I took a catnap after work on Friday, only to have a half-hour barrage of stupid nightmares. So I gave up on that idea, and just lugged my cheapskate ass out to JFK via the subway. Keep in mind that thw two subways and the shuttlebus to the terminal take almost an hour-and-a-half. So I get there, haul my bag through the long check-in line, and the guy at the counter is suprised that no one told me my flight was cancelled weeks ago. Well, it turns out that the ticket they issued me way back when was accidentally put in for the 16th of October, that’s why no one told me! OK, so I’m not having a tantrum, ’cuz that’s not my style, but I’m aggravated as all get-out. Needless to say, everything leaving for London that night is booked, but I can get a 8:30 flight the next morning. Hmmm, that would mean leaving the house at about 4 a.m., right? Thanks, sir, that’s very helpful.

I didn’t want to haul ass all the way back home for a four-hour nap, possibly filled with more stress-induced nightmares. Also, I would be in such a foul mood that my roommate would have to fear for his life, for no other reason that he would be within striking distance. So I decide distraction would be in order. Unfortunately, there’s nowhere to leave my bags at the airport, so I couldn’t really ditch them and go to the movies and an East Village pub crawl, which was my first thought. I remembered, though, that friends were having a little get-together at their swanky new pad near Wall Street, so I decided to go there and hang out and check out the new Xbox. It was a good plan, although it didn’t occur to me that when I got out of the subway I would be looking directly at the Area Formerly Known as the World Trade Center, unexpectedly getting my first close glimpse of the burnded, twisted rubble of the complex. That threw me for a loop, to say the least.

But the diversion with pals did wonders for my morale and gave me a place to nap in their deliciously minimalist studio, and at four I dragged myself right back to JFK. All went slowly but pretty well from there, even though a nine-hour delay left me with a lot of running around to do once I got to London. I dropped my bags at Jonathan’s flat, and zipped off to meet my local friend before he got off work at a pub called the Coleherne somewhere on the other side of town. I didn’t quite make it time, but caught a little of the tail end of their grand re-opening party before heading back to his nearby bed-sit. Not as swanky as the Greene estate perhaps, but it had a warm, if tiny, bed and I had been up for almost 36 hours straight at this point, and could barely remember my own name.

Today has been a bit of a low-key blur, wandering around with this friend trying to work out some of the details of the rest of my stay. Which looks like it will settle down soon, thankfully. Another night of sleep and I might even be able to carry my end of a conversation.

More to come, no doubt.

Losing My Touch

You people are not getting your money’s worth from me. I was just looking through my oldest entries from this site, and I realized that I have totally given in to pointless, banal chatter. Hell, it’s not even funny anymore around here. I’ve totally lost my touch. Or maybe I’m just too mentally exhausted, or finding myself thinking about too many things that would be inappropriate to mention here. Maybe I’ve gone back to taking the funny, quirky things I see and do for granted. Who can say? Probably me, if I thought about it, but who has time these days? I’ve been so busy the last two weeks that I’m looking forward to tonight’s flight to London just so I have a chance to sit still and read magazines or daydream for a while. Maybe I’ll get some clarity with my honey-roasted peanuts and thimble of soda.

Check out this little nugget I wrote a while ago:

So here is my pledge: I’m going to try and stop pulling punches. I’m going to try and resume getting to the meat of things, instead of just carefully dashing off pithy asides and generating my own spin. I don’t intend to put my whole life on display here, since nothing helps out a story a like a lot of judicious editing. I’m not trying to play the exhbitionist, and I always want to leave more levels and facets unrevealed so that there’s a difference between me and the public face I maintain on the site. But I want to get back to the spirit with which I began UltraSparky — the spirit of shameless self-indulgence, coy confession, and light-hearted insight.

Y’all have totally been swindled. I stand ashamed.

But I’m going away on vacation tonight, and looking forward to a few days of q.t. with friends, relaxing and wandering, and curling up at night with sexy boys that make me smile. Maybe the change of scenery will make for better copy. We’ll see.

Airport ’01

More bad aviation news this morning as an American Airlines plane carrying 255 people crashes in Brooklyn shortly after leaving JFK. So far it’s unclear what caused the crash, but we’re already seeing the official reaction that I’ve been expecting from the first post-WTC plane crash: massive lockdown. All the airports, bridges, and tunnels in the area are closed while the government types try to figure out what happened.

I hope this was just tragic, innocent mechanical failure. It’s awful, certainly. After September, plane crashes don’t have the same abstract, far-away quality that they once did. “Oh, wow, how sad.” No, I get these visceral flip-flops in my gut when I hear stuff like this now. Considering the heightened tensions in this country right now, though, I have to hope that this wasn’t terrorist sabotage. I want the extreme reaction to the crash to be overzealous precaution. I don’t want our fears to be proven true. I don’t want more justification for this country to strap on its guns and its flag and kick more ass. I don’t want violence to beget violence to beget violence ad nauseum. It will, of course, in one way or another until the end of time, but I really want the scale of it to level off, not consume us any more than it has.

And on a totally selfish note, because I need a breakfrom all this, I want American Airlines to deal well with this and stay in business for at least a couple of weeks more so I can get on that American flight from JFK to London on Friday and see my friends over there. Let them do what’s best to make things secure, let them search me, make me check all my bags, whatever. Just let me get out of here for a bit.

Potty Mouth

I wanna give a big ol’ shout out to my pal and fellow NYC blog guy Andy for his KICK-ASS one man show, Potty Mouth, which I caught last night. It’s way funny, and saucy, and even very moving, just when you least expect it to be. There’s another performance next Friday 11/16, that you can catch, it’ll be your own fault if you miss it. If you’re not convinced by my enthusiastic recommendation, watch the trailer.

Later, Michael and I went out to FC29/Daddy’s/The Hole/whatever-it-is-now to hang out, catch up, and whine about boy troubles. Of course, and this explains why he’s such a gem, we wound up doing all that but mostly grooving to Prince-affiliated 80s pop, wondering about Rebbie, the forgotten Jackson sister, and talking about our secret love of heavy metal. (Michael was telling me about a turntable-scratch version of Def Leppard’s “Foolin’” that he did many years ago, which is only another reason he’s cool as shit.) It seemed like bloggers were everywhere, convincing me that we’ll own this town before long, but no one will know because we’ll all still be writing about Buffy, boy trouble, therapy, and the little details of downtown-homohipster lifestyles.

Oh, in other theatre news, it looks like Kiki & Herb have finally made it to the big time. This year’s Christmas show, Kiki & Herb: There’s a Stranger in the Manger, is trading in its cramped-yet-intimate cabaret setting for a full-on production at the Westbeth, the theater that spawned Hedwig and the Angry Inch. I’m quivering in anticipation to see what they do with the extra budget and space, even if the ticket price has more than doubled. Luckily, though, those of us on the mailing list have been sent a convenient discount code to get cheaper tix until Dec. 15th, which I will gladly share with you because I love you all and want you to experience the brilliance of Kiki & Herb. Just go to Ticketmaster and give them the code “KHSPIN” when you get your tickets. I’m going on Saturday, 12/1, if anyone wants to make an outing of it. Rock on!